Research Paper

Fashion refers to shifts in style and has been portrayed in a variety of ways, including bold, classy, fickle, and vain. Fashion is the most influential art form in the twenty-first century since it encompasses multiple fields such as architecture and fashion to reflect various identities through visions and aesthetics. Fashion reflects society as a whole, and as such, it is inclusive. There have been highly debated fashion trends, such as the use of fur and genuine leather. Karl Lagerfeld, the creative director of Fendi and one of the leading advocates of the use of real fur in fashion; is famous for his quote on fashion to the effect that as long as there are still people who eat meat in the society, the discussion on the prohibition of fur is a paradox (Ramchandani and Coste-Maniere).
Despite the wide criticism especially by animal rights activists on the use of fur and leather in fashion, the demand for real fur and leather has not waned. Famous brands such as Fendi are still operational and their fashion items using fur acclaimed at having revolutionized the use of fur in fashion. This is despite the invention of faux fur and leather which can be used instead of real fur. Real fur and leather are still in higher demand among the more affluent class in society since they are traditionally attributed to wealth and class. This paper seeks to undertake an analysis on whether real fur and leather should be used or whether faux fur and leather are better. The use of real fur and leather should still prevail in fashion as long as there are mechanisms developed to ensure that they only originate from domestic animals whose other products are used in the food industry.





Arguments for the use of real fur and leather
A sign of wealth and class
Wearing real fur and leather has been referred to as akin to wrapping oneself in a 'sensual second skin'. This adornment of fur and leather is considered classy and a representation of one's wealth status. Real fur and leather gives one an ultra modern look which is considered classy and a sign of wealth. This is because real leather and fur products do not come cheap. So why do people in society spend huge sums of money for products that are considered abominable by animal rights organizations? This emanates from the history of the use of fur and leather by the ruling and elite classes in society. In Egypt, for example, only pharaohs and high priests could wear lion and leopard skins. In 11th Century Western Europe, fur fashion products such as chinchilla were reserved for the noble, bourgeoisie, and royalty (Calefato). In the 13th and 14th century, the growing mercantile class that was becoming wealthier also adopted the fashion sense of the noble and as such, the use of fur and leather was part of their fashion style. However, the adornment of real fur was reserved for the noble and the wealthy elites. This is despite the increase in supply of fur and leather for example in the 17th and 18th Centuries.
The idea of fur and leather as a representation of class and wealth persists even in the twenty first century. As such, the demand for fashion items made from real fur and leather increased as they became less expensive due to the use of technology to process pelts. Due to a persistent belief throughout history that fur and leather were associated with royalty and the elite, they are still a favorable fashion item for wealthy people with disposable income. Faux fur and leather cannot do for the people who seek fur and leather garments and coat for the class and nobility aspects attached to them as it would show an attempt at trying to fake the real deal; which is a fashion 'crime'.
Aesthetic and soft touch appeal
Fur and leather products give better products than faux fur and leather due to the aesthetic appeal and the feel of real fur and leather. Real fur, for example, is softer to the touch and looks better than faux fur. Faux fur's aesthetic appeal can be seen when one runs their finger through it, the fur falls smoothly in a sleek line which can only be compared to the look when an animal is petted. The feel of the fur as one runs their finger through it is also extremely soft. This differs from faux fur which is coarse or rough (Lee, Nayun and Gahyun). Faux fur can also be sticky when the weather is hot. If one runs their fingers through it, the feeling one gets is similar to plastic. Such feelings are important because each person needs to know what the clothes they wear will feel like on their skin. The coarseness of faux fur can lead to itchiness and rashes amongst some people, while real fur gives the feeling of being encapsulated in clouds.

Real leather products last longer than faux leather products and as such, maintain their aesthetic appeal. The surface of faux leather products end up becoming cracked on the surface and even peeling off. This furthers the idea that cheap is expensive and as such, it is better to have the real products which can last longer. Leather and fur also have fine lines and due to firmness of their curves, do not wrinkle easily. Faux fur and leather on the other hand do not have elasticity nor smooth curves and therefore easily wrinkle. Faux leather and fur smell like chemicals and vinyl while real fur and leather has an animal smell.
Does not lead to as much pollution of the environment as compared to faux fur and leather
Faux fur and leather are manufactured from fibers that are polymeric. The polymeric fibers are processed and dyed to meet the required color and texture. Compared to fur, they require much more industrial processing to be produced and developed. As such, they lead to more pollution of the environment than real fur (M. Lee). Since they are also not as durable as real fur and leather, they require production in greater quantities. The demand for them amongst the majority of the population who cannot afford real fur and leather also leads to more production which leads to more pollution of the environment. The chemicals used are later released into water bodies and affect human beings as well as the environment and aquatic life. The chemicals on the products also have an ability to affect those who are engaged in designing them and even those who wear them. Fur and leather requires less industrial processing to become finished products as compared to faux fur and leather and as such, should be the more preferable option for the creation of fashion items.
Luxury brands famous for fur coats
In fashion, who you are wearing can be even more important that what you are wearing. Famous fashion brands such as Coco Chanel and Gucci with its 'Chewbacca' fur slippers are more preferred compared to little known fashion designers. Although famous fashion houses such as Chanel and Prada have had all faux collections in some years, they have never completely done away with real fur and leather. The use of faux fur and leather has been a seasonal feat for major fashion houses. However, famous fashion design brands still using real fur and leather surpass those using faux fur and include Dior, Alexander Wang, Balenciaga, Lois Vuitton, Yves Saint Laurent and Fendi. Fendi, the most vocal in the use of fur is the focus of this section (Humane Society International Australia). The Italian brand's fashion items are simple exquisite fashion pieces. Karl Lagerfeld, the creative director of Fendi has developed the manner in which fur can be used in fashion to include using fur on fur, prints and inlaid collages. His use of furs is similar to the manner in which fabrics are used and as such, he shaves them, dyes them, reverses them and even double-lines them some of his fashion pieces are shown below and the videos of Fendi's recent collection included:






The Fendi flagship store in Rome and its fur studio will go a long way in enhancing fur and leather designs and will lead to the growth of its designs using fur. The Palazzo Fendi in Rome currently houses Fendi. The flagship store will enable the fur designs to be viewed in full lens and the designers who work on the second floor can also be seen. The use of such artistry and aesthetic appeal at the store will attract other customers and make it a site to visit for anyone in Italy (Atwal and Williams). Such visits will also impact the sale and popularity of furs. Below is a picture and video of Fendi's flagship store in Rome and the fur studio:





Other arguments for the use of fur and leather in fashion
Other reasons that support the use of real fur in fashion include: the fact that the fur and leather industry generates more than forty million dollars per year in revenue (Cavusoglu and Dakhli). It is an industry and the arguments about the prohibition of fur and fails to acknowledge the number of people who would lose their jobs and sources of livelihood if the prohibition took effect. Another reason is that it is essential for warmth during cold winter seasons. This is because fur coats are very warm and as such, would prevent people from contracting diseases which result from being exposed to cold for long periods of time, for example asthma. There are also ways to ensure that fur that is used was generated from a source that does not practice animal cruelty and there is humane slaughtering of animals. This can be achieved through traceability which is also adhered to by faux fur designers in order to prove that they are not real fur and leather which are from animals but rather are generated artificially.
Leather and fur from farms that produce animal-based food products
Milk, meat and other animal-based food products are still widely used in the society. Behind the source of meat are animals whose leather could be used in the generation of fur and leather products in fashion. The prohibition of the use of leather and fur in fashion would only lead to the wasting of such material after animals are slaughtered for meat. The prohibition would also not stop even if the use of fur and leather in fashion would come to an end. As such, it is more important to exploit such resources that could go to waste in order to generate more employment opportunities and income.
Fashion is a reflection of society. As such, fashion sometimes influences the society and other times, the society influences fashion. The use of fur and leather in society arises from the meat industry which is very lucrative and provides the leather and fur that can be used (Olson and Goodnight). Hunting is also allowed in some states as long as the hunters adhere to the regulations on hunting that may prohibit hunting in some seasons while allowing for the same in other seasons. Fashion in the case of the use of fur and leather; only uses the society's available resources to produce art. This is because fashion does not influence the societal decision to slaughter animals for their fur. Fashion does not create a demand for the leather and fur but rather, the meat industry creates the supply of the products.
Due to the explained reasons, domestic animal fur and leather use in the fashion can be deemed acceptable; however, the use of endangered animals and wild animals would contradict this stance. This is because in such a scenario, fashion would be creating the demand for wild animal leather and fur thereby leading to the killing of wild animals. Domestic animals are also higher in population than wild animals and are not endangered by the fur industry. This is therefore where the line should be drawn in the use of fur and leather in fashion.
Reasons against the use of real fur and leather in the fashion industry
Killing of animals shows a lack of humanity
One of the arguments against the use of real fur and leather in the fashion industry is that propagated by the animal rights movement against the killing of animals. There is the argument that every year, animals are killed in millions in order to facilitate the fur and leather. These animals are grown in inhumane conditions and nurtured just so that they can be killed. Some slaughter houses also use torture on the animals in order to kill them before slaughtering them. For example, there are slaughterhouses that use anal electrocution on the animals (Hansson and Jacobsson). The animals are also crammed in small spaces before they are killed and this causes them to even maul each other before their deaths. Other times, dead animal carcasses are left rotting next to other animals also crowded in the same space.
This type of actions shows a lack of humanity which is arguably capable of developing into the capability of a person murdering other human beings. Animals have life just as human beings do. They give birth and they therefore have families. The animal farms developed in order to create the demand for meat and other products such as fur and leather fail to take this into account and disregard the lives of the animals choosing even when the animals get to die. There is no excuse for some of the atrocious behavior by those who run such animal farms.

However, the market and demand for meat is still a thriving enterprise that has never been critically affected by human rights movements. The market has not even been adversely affected by the ranking of processed meat as one of the leading causes of cancer. Slaughtering of animals for meat is therefore not going to stop any time soon unless meat consumption also ends (Rothgerber). The fur and leather from such animals should not go to waste when it could be used to generate millions in revenue and provide employment opportunities for other people in the society. As such, the middle ground would be the use of tracing in order to determine where animal fur comes from and in thus enabling fashion houses to determine whether or not the slaughter houses and animal farms that supply their fur and leather treat the animals therein in a humane manner.
Pollution of the environment by the rising number of cows
There is an argument that the rising numbers of cows which are being grown in animal farms in order to meet the supply of their products are becoming more dangerous to the planet than cars. According to a United Nations report, the carbon dioxide emitted from burning fuel to create fertilizer which is used to grow feed for the animals, the use of cars to transport meat and the deforestation caused by grazing are some of the factors that contribute to cows endangering the planet (Boland). Furthermore, methane which warms the earth at a faster rate that carbon dioxide is also produced in the cows manure and wind. Animals produce these and one hundred other polluting gases. As such, there is the argument that the number of animals on the planet should reduce. The animal farms, for example fur farms in India do not help the situation as their aim is to grow more animals in order to get more profits from the sale of leather, fur and other products.
However, this argument can be countered by the fact that there are ways to deal with all the factors that cause the pollution. One is the planting of more trees and farming animal feed which would reduce the amount of carbon dioxide in the atmosphere as well as reducing the need to for animals to graze in a manner that causes deforestation. As such, the root cause of the problem is not the fact that the fur and leather fashion industry uses fur from animals but rather the lack of regulation of the manner in which animal farms go about the making of profits. The problem is therefore not the fashion industry but rather the owners of such farms who are more focused on making profits at the expense of the environment (Harris).

Brands famous for only using faux fur to make good fashion designs
Some of the famous fashion brands that use only faux fur and leather and make good designs are Stella McCartney, Charly Calder and Adolfo Dominguez (Eskinder, Ebone and Jefferson). These fashion designers are committed to cruelty free designs and their designs are made with quality faux fur that looks similar and is nearly as soft as real fur. Some of their faux fur designs are shown in order below:


Stella McCartney is a vegan and a crusader in the animal rights movement. Unlike other fashion designers who have used fur at some point in their careers, McCartney has neither used fur nor leather. Her designs are aimed at providing an alternative and her target market is the young generation including millennials. She aims to promote a vegan lifestyle even in fashion and has several campaigns to promote the stance.
The PETA Website
The People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals is a leading animal rights organization that has led campaigns against animal cruelty and the use of real fur and leather in the fashion industry. It has several campaigns that are aimed at stopping the use of leather and fur in the fashion industry. These campaigns are aimed at the changing of the mentality in society of wearing fur as a sign of wealth and class and others are aimed at the education of members of the public on animal cruelty (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals). Some of their campaigns are shown below:

Just like other conservationists and activists, PETA can be argued to be too idealistic and narrowly focused on one problem while ignoring all others. Instead of focusing on a demonization strategy of fashion designs that use fur and leather in their designs; PETA should focus on the genesis of the problem that fashion represents. Fashion only shows the true nature of the society. The meat industry thrives because many people continue to eat meat despite the information they have at their disposal about animal cruelty. They should rather focus on efforts such as changing the public perception on meat; or other methods such as traceability in order to ensure that animal farms create humane standards for the animals in their farms instead of being focused on more profits.
Wild animals and the fur and leather industry
Wild animals are different from domestic animals as they are protected by governments against poaching and extinction. There are laws that prevent the use of wild animals' hide for uses such as the making of accessories such as leather belts. Some of the wild animals which have been affected by poaching in order for their hide or skin to be acquired for fashion purposes are lizards, some types of snakes and albino alligators (Gardetti). Unlike the domestic animals that are found in large numbers and do not face extinction despite their use for food and other products, wild animals actually face extinction from a number of factors such as poaching, urbanization and deforestation. Since there are laws preventing poaching and hunting of some wild animals, their hide and fur are not found readily on the market and therefore, if used in fashion; it would mean that the fashion industry was the one making a demand for the products and as such, promoting poaching and extinction of species. As such, it is arguably necessary that fashion designers avoid the use of wild animals in the making of their fur and leather fashion pieces.
Below is a video of the albino alligators facing extinction:



Conclusion
Animal fur and leather is readily available in the market due to the meat industry that provides food and other products which are widely consumed in the public. If the fashion industry did not make use of the leather and fur, they would be wasted and lead to more pollution of the environment. The use of fur and leather in the fashion industry has generated more employment for people, leads to less pollution of the environment as compared to the chemically manufactured faux fur and leather; and are cultural phenomena from the beginning of society which associated leather and fur to the elite and ruling class.
The arguments against fur and leather use in fashion have been deconstructed to show that the problem lies with the society's consumption of meat in large proportion that fuels the inhumane growing of animals in farms. The fashion industry only utilizes products that could be deemed as waste in order to create a profitable industry. The only concern is over wild animals which differ in this aspect with domestic animals which can be legally consumed. Due to wild animals facing extinction, it is important that they are protected to ensure their survival. Other than that, fashion products made from fur and leather should be produced in more alluring designs as fashion continues developing.







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